The bed of the pond may be variously made. It must be water-tight, not liable to injury by frost, and of a suitable size and depth. We know one little garden which was made by simply scooping out the earth like the bowl of a spoon and laying in a thick coat of cement – no brick, no stone. Here grew the big red Devon water-lily (N ymphaea Devoniensis), Sturtevant’s massive pink (Nymphaea Sturtevantii), both tender; the white night lotus (Nymphaea Lotus), and several hardy varieties, and all with the greatest luxuriance. But, alas, one hard winter frost cracked the cement, the water ran out and all was lost. But, then, no artificial pond can last indefinitely without repairs.

Another water garden amateur had a gorgeous show of water hyacinths, big yellow water poppies, plumes of parrot-feathers, and water-lilies in pink, yellow and white. This tank was built of a single course of brick carefully laid in cement. The place was excavated to a depth of sixteen inches, and the bottom and walls were covered with a coat of the best Portland cement. Its dimensions were four and a half by six and a half feet. It had a partition near one end coming up nearly to the water level. The larger part contained rich earth to a depth of about six inches for water-lilies and lotus, the smaller was filled with earth and served for bog plants. This, however, is not recommended.

The safest construction, however, is that recommended by Mr. Tricker as follows: “Dig down two feet six inches and lay a wall of brick eight inches thick below, tapering (if desired) to four inches at the top. The bottom is packed with broken stone, and this and the walls are heavily coated with the best cement.”

In winter the margins should be protected with litter or leaves. Indeed, it is a good thing to draw off all the water and pack the tank tightly with dead leaves, piling them several inches deep over the whole. Hardy plants will survive so long as the water does not freeze to the bottom.

As to the depth of the pool; twelve to eighteen inches is all that is absolutely necessary for water-lilies, and eighteen to twenty-four will do for Victoria. The additional depth for Victoria is best arranged by making a pit in the bottom of the pond in which to place its tub. Thus room is given for the development of its gigantic leaves and flowers without greatly increasing either the work of excavation or the volume of water required. It is very desirable to have the water shallow enough for the gardener to walk through it with hip boots, though with ponds of twelve feet width, or less, a plank can be laid across and access to the plants is easy.